Shikakai, Reetha, Amla, Hibiscus or Bhringraj: Which Hair Powder to Choose

Two kinds of hair powder

Traditional South Indian hair care uses powders in two ways. Washing powders clean the hair and scalp in place of shampoo. Pack powders are mixed into a thicker paste, left on the hair for a while, and rinsed out — closer to a conditioner or hair mask.

Knowing which group a powder belongs to answers most of the "which should I buy" question. You need one washing powder; pack powders are optional and can be added one at a time.

Shikakai: the everyday wash

Shikakai (seeyakai, சீயக்காய்) is the dried, ground pod of Acacia concinna. It is the traditional washing powder of South Indian households: mixed with warm water into a runny paste, worked through wet hair and rinsed. It lathers only a little, which is normal.

If you are buying one hair powder, buy this one.

Reetha: when you want lather

Reetha (soapnut, பூந்திக்கொட்டை) is the dried fruit of the soapnut tree. It contains natural saponins, which is why it foams when rubbed with water. On its own it can feel drying to some people, so it is usually mixed with shikakai — commonly one part reetha to two or three parts shikakai.

Amla: in the wash or in a pack

Amla (nellikai, நெல்லிக்காய்) powder is dried Indian gooseberry. It is the most flexible of the five: a spoonful is often added to a shikakai wash, and it is the base of many hair packs, alone or with hibiscus.

Hibiscus: the smooth pack

Hibiscus (sembaruthi, செம்பருத்தி) flower powder turns slippery when mixed with water, so a hibiscus pack spreads easily and rinses out smoothly. It is the usual partner for amla in a pack, and it stains — expect deep red water while rinsing.

Bhringraj: the traditional oil herb

Bhringraj (karisalankanni, கரிசலாங்கண்ணி) is best known in South India as an ingredient boiled into hair oils. As a powder it is mixed into a pack with water or aloe gel. It is the strongest-smelling of the five, green and herbal.

Building a simple routine

A routine does not need all five. A sensible way to start:

• Wash day: shikakai with warm water, or shikakai and reetha if you want lather.
• Once a week, if you want a pack: amla, or amla with hibiscus, mixed with water or curd and rinsed after 20–30 minutes.
• Add bhringraj later if you want a greener, herbal pack.
• Mix each paste fresh, and use one new powder at a time so you know how each one suits you.

How to mix a simple hair-wash paste

A starting quantity for shoulder-length hair; use more or less for longer or shorter hair:

• 2 tablespoons shikakai powder — or 2 tablespoons shikakai with 2 teaspoons reetha powder for more lather.
• Optional: 1 teaspoon amla powder.
• Add 6–8 tablespoons of warm water a little at a time, stirring into a smooth, runny paste. Let it stand for five minutes.
• Wet your hair thoroughly. Apply the paste to the scalp first, then work it through the lengths and massage gently for two or three minutes.
• Rinse until the water runs clear. Keep the paste away from your eyes — shikakai stings.

Buying them

Each Thenvanam hair powder is a single ingredient in a 100 g pack: Shikakai Powder, Reetha Powder, Amla Powder, Hibiscus Flower Powder and Bhringraj Powder. The Traditional Hair Wash collection groups the washing powders. Patch test any powder new to you on the inner arm the day before, and keep packs away from the eyes.